A Really Long Post

Bonsoir! (They say that all the time here so long as it is not early in the morning- it means good evening) I am typing this blog in my host family's living room, and then I'm going to try putting it on a flash drive and loading it on to a computer at an internet cafe tomorrow after school. (Yes, I am in school right now, 40 hours a week :( BUT, we do get a 2.5 hour lunch/siesta time in the middle of the day which is nice!)
Since I last updated, we have moved to another city: Porto Novo, the capital of Benin. It is MUCH nicer than Cotonou- cleaner, more tranquil, more trees/public parks, less pollution, etc. Because this was the colonial capital of the area, there are lots of multi-story buildings (a rarity in West Africa), and lots of gorgeous houses, relatively speaking. My host family lives in such a house: 3 stories with a lovely pavilion on top. The houses are old, however, and have not had much upkeep, so they are quite run down. They still look like gold compared to many of the houses here, though! The odd part about the house I live in, though, is that they only live on the first floor, and I think they keep their two dogs on the other floors? I only saw the animals the first night I was here. Pets here are not like in the USA, and dogs are often seen as dirty/disease-ridden animals.
So, my family is pretty cool, but a bit untraditional in the American sense. My papa is probably in his late sixties, and his wife and all of his children live in France (he stayed here so he could continue running the church choir...). My “mama” is probably in her mid thirties, and has a husband, but is here from about 5am until midnight every day! I am guessing that papa pays here to cook and clean and act like a mama. There are two or three girls who live here (meaning sleep here), but there are a few other girls who are ALWAYS here during the day and are related to the family. The concept of “family” here is very different from what I am used to. Family is anyone you might know or even run into. Because this is a very collectivist society and people do each other huge favors on a daily basis, people will just send their children wherever, whenever. People of all ages come in and out of the house regularly and I never know their relation to the family! But they all seem very happy to have me here. [on a sad note, we learned today about the major child trafficking problem here because everyone wants to send their children somewhere else to have a better life, and the children often become “domestiques” or glorified slaves to the family in return for food and shelter. Luckily I am nearly positive that this is not the case with my family!]
The youngest of my host sisters is absolutely adorable. They say she is eight, but I am not sure she is that old. She gets the BIGGEST smile on her face whenever she sees me, and always has to be holding my hand or playing with my hair. She can barely speak French and is fairly shy, but we get along wonderfully :) The other sisters are very cool too, and are probably between the ages of 13 and 17.
The sisters do EVERYTHING for me, which has been very difficult to get used to. When they picked me up to bring me home, they wouldn't let me touch any of my luggage, including my purse and water bottle. They sweep my room 2 or 3 times a day. They do my laundry for me. They won't let me take my dirty dishes into the kitchen. It's crazy! I started off protesting, but have found that a) it doesn't do any good, and b) I am offending them. I always thank them a thousand times. To tell you the truth, it is kind of nice to have so much done for me after living on my own for 4 years! I am trying not to get used to it, though, since I will be moving to my post in less than two months and will have to do everything for myself there!
In this culture, the women do everything. When papa wants his pillow fluffed, he calls them over to do it. It is very hard for an independent woman to get used to, but you just have to accept that it is part of the culture here. The women cook, clean, and sell their wares, while the men uphold the family status by socializing with the right people. It is also sad to note the ratio of boys to girls in school here: many girls don't even enter what we would consider high school and virtually none finish school. This is because they get married and/or pregnant, or are needed for work and chores. The worst part is, the reason that many of them get pregnant is their school teachers force them to sleep with them in order to remain in school :(
I have my own room here which is pretty nice. I have gotten used to and fallen in love with sleeping with a mosquito net. It is like having a blanket/protection, because it is too hot to sleep with a blanket or sheets! (Speaking of mosquitoes, I am getting eaten alive here, and I have heard that many people still get malaria even when on the meds. I am just trying to accept that fact and keep my fingers crossed!) My host family gave me a small fan for my room, which is nice. Bonus: there aren't many bugs here! (Although, when I got up in the middle of the night to go to the bathroom last night, I ran into what I swear has to be the biggest cockroach on God's green earth)
We have been taking language classes, as well as TEFL (Teacher of English as a Foreign Language) specific classes and cross-cultural classes. This week we start health and safety classes too. Unfortunately, we have a half day of classes on Saturdays :( Language has been a bit boring. I got placed in the highest-level French class, but I still feel fairly far ahead of people and am eager to get to learn the local language of my post. We are split up by sector, and I therefore haven't seen my friends who are health or environment workers in almost a week! We will see each other every Tuesday when we all have class together, and hopefully as we get to know the town better we can see each other more often. It is also a bummer because it is not really safe to go out after dark here unless we are accompanied by an African, and it gets dark here by about 7:45. I wouldn't want to go out after dark here anyway, just thinking of how much attention/people following me on the streets here when it is light out! Today was the first day that it started to get to me, probably because one guy a bit younger than me has taken to trying to walk me home every day and he is definitely sketchy. I not to fret though, I told my family and I know they will protect me! That is something I love about the culture here: once people get to know and respect you, they will do anyyything for you and go out of their way to protect you.
Today I went to church with my family. When I met my family 4 days ago, one of the first things my papa asked me was if I was religious, and he was eeeecstatic when he found out I was protestant because he is too. Church was 2.5 hours, which was especially long because it was all in Goun, the local language here. The music was gorgeous and so joyful, though, so that got me through. My papa runs the church choir which rehearses at our house every Saturday night, and the family gets up at 4am to sing and praise god every morning! I have a hunch that it is because they want to beat the Muslims and be the first people to greet God every morning ;) I am woken at about 5:15 every morning by the Muslim call to prayer which is broadcast over a loudspeaker over the whole town!
Speaking of loud noises during the night, they never stop! Sleep is not sacred here like it is in the USA, and people play load music at all hours of the night. For instance, there is a voodoo group called “Guardians of the Night” who go around in the middle of the night banging drums and singing to protect the town. (No one is supposed to see them, though, especially women, and especially white women. Legend has it that is someone looks at them, they die within three days! I will do my best to avoid them :) Also, people don't sleep a whole lot. My host family eats dinner at about 11pm and gets up at 4am.
I am still getting followed on the streets by hoards of children yelling “yovo!” at me, which once again is not an insult, but rather an expression of their surprise and excitement that you are here. There is a song they sing that goes: “Yovo yovo bonsoir, ca va bien, merci” that is as ubiquitous here as Twinkle Twinkle is in the USA. When children start singing it to me, I usually finish the song which delights them. I also usually wave! Greeting people on the streets is very very important in order to gain repsect here. The problem is, however, that each greeting takes about 5 minutes because you have to ask about their family, house, health, etc. It is also difficult because sometimes if you greet the wrong people (i.e. 18-30 year old men), they take it the wrong way and often start walking with you and expect you to “accomany”them for awhile. Gross.
I have been having a hard time getting used to the food here. They serve whole fish that have clearly been sitting around for a few days, and eat parts of animals they we would never think to eat in the USA. They also use tons of oil and mayonnaise, which is pretty heavy and gross. I got really sick to my stomach AND had an awful fever yesterday, but I am better now.
Today (I am now writing this on Thursday night), I met a king! The 2 highest level French classes got to go meet the king of Porto Novo, and it was pretty trippy. He sat on his throne and we all knelt on the floor in front of him, and had to prostrate ourselves several times during the visit and offer him gifts.
Ok, that is probably enough for now. One last note: I DO have a cell phone here, and it is free for me to receive calls and texts from the USA! My number is: (229)98681518. The 229 is the country code, and don't forget to dial 011 before those numbers to dial out of the States. I am having a problem receiving calls from the USA unless you use something called “keepcalling.com” where you connect your credit card to an account and then the site gives you a number to use when calling me. It is 12 cents a minute! I know for certain that this service works. I may try and figure something out so that Skype will work with my network too, but for now keepcalling.com is a sure thing and it is cheaper than Skype, not to mention you don't need to be on a computer/have a headset to call. Please call me!!! It's very affordable for you, and free and very necessary for me to stay perked up! In the meanwhile, I am able to receive and I believe send texts, so please text me! I love and miss you all! A toute a l'heure!

Cotonou

Hello again! I figured that I would write another blog, since I have free time and free internet access at the Peace Corps Headquarters!
Yesterday, we had lunch at the country director's gorgeous mansion in Cotonou. The ambassador cam and spoke with us, which was nice. We then had our first language class. I was put in the highest level language group, so that is good! Hopefully I can start learning a local language soon. After that, we played with the local children for hours while there parents were at church. They are so precious! They loved getting their picture taken and then looking at it right afterwards.
Unfortunately, last night one of the volunteers in my group broke his ankle and has to get flown to either Senegal or South Africa for treatment. He is determined to come back and finish training though!
We just had our zemidjan taxi training (mopeds), and rode around the town a bit. People started because not only are we white, but we were the only people wearing helmets :)
The water has been out for a while now, so we have all been taking bucket showers! I am used to all the lizards now, and bugs, but last night there was a spider that was almost as big as a tarantula in the wall by my bed! I made a current volunteer come kill it- it was like killing a small animal!
Anyways, that is what we have been up to. We move in with our host families on Wednesday, and training will then be in full force! We are moving to Porto Novo for training, which is supposedly a nicer city. I'll hopefully write again soon!

Bienvenue en Afrique!

Salut tout le monde! I am currently typing this blog in the Peace Corps headquarters in Cotonou, the biggest city in Benin. If I look out of the window in front of me, I see a road with plenty of zemis (moped taxis) and some street vendors. Also lots of people carrying their belongings on their heads- a skill which I have decided that I must acquire while here :)
Our day of travel yesterday was very long: we got to Philly's airport 5 hours before our flight, then had a slight delay to Paris, a 5 hour delay in Paris (not quite long enough to go into town, boo), and then our flight was delayed almost 2 hours (while we were sitting on the plane!), followed by a 6 hour flight to Cotonou. It was so beautiful to fly over the Mediterranean and the Sahara!
When we got into Benin, it took about 2 hours to get our luggage, in a room jam packed with people in about 90 degree weather. We were then greeted by some current PCVs in Benin, and I got my first marriage proposal from a nice Beninese gentleman hahaha. We then took about a half hour bus ride to our hotel which is on the outskirts of the city. There are NO traffic rules here, so the drive was scary! Tons of zemis; PC Benin is the only PC country where we can and must use zemis to get around. Scary at first I bet, we have training on Monday for them! It was odd driving through the city at night. There were street lights, but most of the vendors on the street were in rundown huts with only candles for light. There were TONS of people out. It looked like what you back home might think of as a slum, but I have already learned that that is not the case.
The hotel-ish place we are staying at is an old Catholic mission. When we arrived, tonsss of current Benin PCVs wee there to welcome us and help get our luggage to our rooms. My roomate and I were promptly greeted by swarms of mosquitoes and lots of lizards in our shower, not to mention oppressive heat and humidity. But we still managed to have a good time! We wrapped up the night with an ice cold soda and all singing the national anthem since it was the 4th of July. After the best shower of my life (ice cold water), I tried to get some sleep in my massive mosquito-netted bed, but between the heat and LOUD African drumming party outside of my room, it was difficult.
Today we had our language interviews to determine which language class we will be in, which I assume we find out tomorrow. I am hoping to be able to start learning a local language right away, since I think a French language class would bore me. I think it should work out! We also got issued our bikes and got some more vaccines... we have to get roughly 234908239048 innoculations here. Also, PC gave me the weekly malaria prophylactic, which I am not thrilled about because it gives most people that take it hallucinations/nightmares, not to mention it is illegal in Europe. I tried giving them a doctors note, no good so far, but I am going to try again in a few days when we come back to the medical unit.
Tomorrow we have brunch at the Country Director's house, and meet the US ambassador here. The next few weeks will be intense classes on everything from repairing a broken bike to riding a zemi to bleaching vegetables to local language. We meet our host families on Wednesday. Since this is the first time that training hadbeen in Porto-Novo (the capital city), none of these families have hosted Americans before, which I think is a marvelous opportunity. I will find out my sight in about three weeks, and go to visit it July 30-August 2! I can't WAIT... I am going to try to get placed in a community that has not had a PCV before, maybe a smaller community somewhere in the middle or north part of the country.
Sorry this post was so detailed, but I am just taking everything in right now and trying to give you guys a slice of what my life in Africa is like! I don't know when I will be able to update next, so a bientot! I miss and love you all!

Philly!

Hi everyone! I am typing this blog from my hotel room in Philly- free internet/desktop computers in every room :)
Yesterday started off on a bad note- my flight was delayed almost an hour and a half, making it a rush when we got into Philly. Luckily there were 5 people from my Benin group on my flight so we were all late together!
Staging has been pretty fun, just lectures, activities, and getting to know one another. The people in my group are great, and come from all over the country (Alabama, Hawii, even a few from thr UK who have dual citizenship). There is a married couple who I would venture to say is in their late 50s, as well as a single woman that age. Three volunteers from MSU and one from OSU, but I am the only UofM grad! There is also a girl who finished Peace Corps service in Ukraine one month ago in our group, and one girl who had to be evacuated from Kenya after the political violence there- so brave on both of their parts! The only thing about other volunteers that I am surprised about is the lack of French language knowledge... I think I may be one of the most (if not THE most) fluent French-speakers here. Last night we went to Chilis for dinner and got good old American food, and tonight a small group of us went to a nice seafood restaurant for our last dinner in the US. Both of our cab drivers tonight were from Africa, so it was fun to speak to them!
Tomorrow we get some more vaccinations and then fly to Benin via Paris! (It is going to take everything in me not to bust out of Charles de Gaulle airport and stay in France :) I can't WAIT to get there. It is the first time that training has been in Porto Novo, meaning that we will be the first Americans our families will have hosted. Our swearing-in as volunteers on Spetember 5th will also be a part of the 40th anniversary of PC Benin, so the president will be there! Awesome!
I miss you all already, but my extreme excitement to move to Africa tomorrow is keeping me very happy. I will update as soon as I can once in Benin!

Goodbye America!

The time has come- I leave my Ann Arbor in about 7.5 hours! It's been a while since I have updated, so here goes:
I have spent the last 2 weeks shopping for my last few things, moving out of my apartment, and spending some time with friends and family. Last weekend, I went to South Haven with my aunt and cousin (who is more like a sister to me). It was really great to see the west side of the state/Lake Michigan/a great sunset one more time.
This past weekend, Cam and Sarah came into town. Cam and I went to Detroit for the night and had a WONDERFUL dinner at a restaurant on the top floor of the Motor City Casino called Iridescence. I would hiiighly recommend it to anyone. 516 had a going away party for me which was very fun, and a good way to see a lot of my friends before I leave. Yesterday, I had a comissioning at church and then a family lunch and then open house. We had a GREAT turnout- thanks to everyone who came! I had a cool cake in the shape of Africa with Benin filled in :)
Today I basically finished moving out of the apartment, said the hardest goodbyes (except for my parents who are taking me to the airport in the morning), and went to a nice dinner at Zingerman's Roadhouse.
The goobyes have been hard, but not as bad as I expected. I cried less than I thought I would, and some people had a harder time than I expected they would. It will almost be a relief once I have said goodbye to my parents and all the tough ones are done! I was VERY sad to say goodbye to my cats and my apartment, though :(
In terms of packing, I am basically at the limit. Peace Corps allows you up to 2 checked pieces of luggage totaling up to 80 lbs., plus a carry on. My 2 suitcases are pretty close to 80 lbs. combined and my backpack is pretty stuffed. I had hoped that I would be able to pack lighter, but it sounds like a lot of people in my group have the same problem. I am hoping that we will never have to carry them too far at any one time... Rumor has it that there was once a PC volunteer who brought nothing but a multitool! I'm sure I overpacked, but oh well!
Well, here I go on the adventure of my life! Please please write me letters!!! (I will post my new address here once I know it in a month or so) I will need the support. Packages are good too, but there's never a guarentee they will get there wuickly or even at all. I have heard if you write "educational materials" of "Jesus saves" on the package that it will get there more quickly and safely! Please keep in touch with my friends and family as well, because they will need some support through this too! I love you all, and KEEP IN TOUCH! A tres bientot!

Chicago

I went to Chicago this past weekend, both to visit some friends and also to do some major Peace Corps supply shopping.
I had a really good time! On Friday Amanda (my roomate from my study abroad in France) and I had dinner and watched movies with her parents who live in a suburb of the city, and on Saturday we went out with our friend Morgan (also from the study abroad). We kept up our tradition of drinking lots of wine and eating lots of cheese :)
Yesterday the three of us went out to brunch (I had something called "breakfast pasta", it was delicious) and then I spent about 2 hours in Morgan's outdoor store and bought a TON of PC supplies. I got my backpack, which is really light, a headlamp and flashlight, some camelback water bottles, some of those hideous but practical close-toed tennis shoe sandals, a quick dry towel, a travel pillow, lots of quick dry undergarments, some more Africa-appropriate clothing, a travel alarm clock, and a bunch more things that I am forgetting. The bill was $505, but Morgan brought it down to about $400 for me which was AWESOME. It was a total bummer to say goodbye to her and Amanda, but they are pretty adamant about coming to visit me! They are both young and working so they might be able to afford it! We already know that we travel well together from France :)
Our bus ride home was long and we left late and got stuck in traffic, but I met this totally cool guy and we talked the whole time so it went by pretty quickly. If you happen to be reading this Wesley, please send me an email or something! I would love to chat again sometime!
This week I have to finish my scrapbook to take to Benin with me, and finish shopping. Next weekend I am spending two days in South Haven with my aunt and cousin, and the next week I have to pack, move out of my apartment :(, and then Cam comes! Time is FLYING by- I leave 2 weeks from tomorrow! Call me if you want to hang out sometime before then!

Crunch Time

Yesterday was my last day of work nannying in Bloomfield Hills! I had really been looking forward to a few weeks off before heading to Benin, and here I am. I was surprised to feel kind of sad leaving there yesterday, both because I'll miss the people (and the money!), and because that means I am truly in high gear getting ready to take off in a few weeks!
In these next three weeks, I have a TON to do. Along with all of the shopping I still need to do, I have tons of things to arrange like canceling my cell phone, consolidating bank accounts, getting medications set up, etc. etc.
The good news is, though, that I got my new laptop yesterday! I debated for a long time about whether or not to bring a laptop, and the general consensus of current PCVs is yes, definitely bring one. That way I can write blogs and journals on it, and store pictures on it, load it to a flash drive and take it quickly to an internet site when I have access to one. I got an Asus Eee, which is 7 inches and weighs less than 2 pounds! It is very durable and works well in the heat- perfect for my travels! It runs on Linux, and I was planning on installing Windows onto it when I got it, but it turns out I LOVE Linux and it is much more efficient than Windows. Saves a ton of space too!
This past week we sent out invitations for my goodbye openhouse on June 29. We're getting a cake in the shape of Africa hahaha, how awesome is that! Please come by if you can, it is at 2:30 at 212 N. Seventh st. in Ann Arbor.
Yesterday I found out that Cam will be here the weekend before I leave, which is very cool. I also made my travel arrangements to get from Detroit to Philadelphia (for staging) to Benin: I leave Detroit at 10:10 am on July 1, leave Philadelphia at 6:45 pm on July 3, get into Paris the morning of July 4 and get to Benin at 6:35 pm that night. We start our classes and training on July 5, and on the 6th we meet with the ambassador! Can't wait :)
Last random thought for this blog: I'm pretty sure I'm going to get a cat or two while I'm in Benin. I've never lived without cats, they would be great company, and keep down the lizard and bug population in my house :) Let the shopping marathon begin...